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Knit Categories

A knit is a fabric made from interlocking looped stitches. Because of this construction, knits shed wrinkles well, are comfortable to wear, and are easy to sew because they do not ravel. There are many kinds of knits, and most of those available for sewing can be grouped into the following general categories:

Firm, stable knits do not stretch significantly and are handled similarly to woven fabrics. In this group are double knits, which have fine lengthwise ribs on both sides. Raschel knit is a lacy or open knit texture that does not stretch because lengthwise threads are locked into some of the knitted loops. Some are made from bulky yarn and look like hand knits, others are made from finer yarns and look crocheted.

Lightweight single knits have fine ribs running lengthwise on the right side and loops running crosswise on the wrong side. Pull the crosswise edge of a single knit and it will roll to the right side. Single knits such as jersey, tricot, and interlock do not stretch lengthwise, but they do have crosswise give.

Textured knits may be single or double knits. This category is distinguished by a surface texture, usually on the right side. Knitted terry and velour are pile knits that usually have a great deal of crosswise stretch. Also in the category of textured knits are sweater knits. Patterned sweater knits have floats on the wrong side where colored yarns are carried from one motif to another. Comfortable sweatshirt fleece looks like a single knit on the right side; the wrong side has a soft, brushed surface.

Two-way stretch knits have a great degree of stretch crosswise and lengthwise and a high percentage of resilient spandex fibers. Absorbent cotton/spandex and cotton/polyester/spandex knits are favored for active sportswear such as leotards, body suits, and aerobic exercise outfits. Strong nylon/spandex knits are resilient, even when wet, and are usually selected for swimwear.

Ribbing is a very stretchy knit that can be used for tops and for finishing knit garments at wrists, ankles, neck, and waist. One type is tubular ribbing, which is sold by the inch and must be cut open along one lengthwise rib for sewing. Another type is rib trim, which is color coordinated with sweater knits; one edge is prefinished, and the other is sewn to the garment.